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In 2004, Hublot hired the legendary executive Jean-Claude Biver—who had previously revived Blancpain and led a surge at Omega, all while making his own cheese that he sent to friends—to revitalize the company. It took him just one year to come up with the answer: the Hublot Big Bang, a bold and brawny timepiece that put its finger directly on what luxury watch clients were after in 2005. The model was an instant hit, with its striking, oversized case appealing especially to action stars and rappers—Jay-Z, for one, eventually collaborated with Hublot on a special-edition Big Bang). Within a decade, the Big Bang represented 50% of the brand’s sales. Now, Hublot is celebrating its flagship watch’s 20th birthday in the only way it knows how: decadently.
If Hublot is the more-is-more watch brand, it certainly applied that philosophy to this latest set of drops: Today, the brand unveiled five new suites of Big Bang releases, plus another one-off version, all adding up to a grand total of 25 new variations of the model. Safe to say this is a Big Year for the Big Bang.
A $1.1 Million Set of Big Bangs
The headliners in this lineup are undoubtedly the five one-of-one watches put together in a one-of-one set that will retail for $1.1 million (1 million Swiss francs). Forget the Big Bang—these are Freaking Huge Bangs! Absolutely Massive Bangs! On the very first day, the set sold. Each of these watches pay tribute to the model’s use of various super technical “high” complications and far-out materials over the past 20 years.
Hublot pulled out all the stops for these watches. Highlighted in the collection are tourbillons, skeletonized movements, minute repeaters, and red ceramic. And just because they can: The Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater uses a material similar to carbon fiber called Texaliumt that features a tighter weave than tired-old carbon fiber to produce even more vibrant coloration.
To make sure you really get your $1 million worth, the watches comes with a backlit display case.
The 20th Anniversary Editions
Hublot plays all the hits with this set of five watches. There are elements drawn from the original Big Bang—like the rubber strap with the tread or knurled edge of the bezel—combined with the brand’s more modern watchmaking techniques. The case has been completely redesigned to fuse the two eras of the brand together.
My favorite piece to come out of this selection is without a doubt the Red Magic. Every year, without fail, Hublot manages to splash some high-tech material with a color few other watch brands would even dare to use as an accent. The brand first began producing colored ceramics in 2018, and it debuted that new talent with a crimson Red Magic edition. This new model is an homage to the piece that started it all.
The Master of Sapphire Set
Unsurprisingly, the brand that named its flagship watch after the creation event of the entire universe isn’t trying to act humble now. The Master of Sapphire set comprises five versions of the Big Bang in colors that represent some of the “Hublot Manufacture’s proudest achievements,” according to a press release.
The first Big Bang in sapphire arrived in 2016, but the selection has grown exponentially since then. Some all-time favorites are showcased here, as the new range runs the gamut from blue and purple to the, ahem, highlight in neon yellow.
Joyful Watches
The flood of Big Bangs caps off with seven versions of the “One Click” variation. This more feminine take on the model clocks in at 33 millimeters and takes its name from the system that allows the wearer to switch out the bracelet with—you guessed it—one click.
The five versions really worth your attention here are the new ”One Click Joyful” models. This set of watches arrive in red, orange, pink, blue, and green, and all come set with gemstones in their respective colors. It’s the first time Hublot has matched the color of its blinged-out bezels to a corresponding rubber strap, which is the kind of history-making I care about.
These Joyful watches also showcase the versatility of the Big Bang. While it may have started as a macho sport watch of epic proportions, over the years Hublot has spun the model off in several different directions. In addition to the classic, there’s also the barrel-shaped Spirit of Big Bang and the Square Bang (great name, requires no further explanation). The One Click is another branch, and evidence the watch can also take on a more demure look. Fitting for a watch called the Big Bang to create an entire universe.