Over the past couple of years, the Edgar haircut has become an especially popular hairstyle. On the surface it might appear as a grown-up bowl cut, but it actually has a rich indigenous heritage that traces back over half a millennium.
Originating from the Jumano tribe, which dominated Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico between 1500 and 1700, tribesmen used to wear a very similar hairstyle, complete with intricate face markings and a headdress made from bird feathers. While the origins of the name “Edgar haircut” are fuzzy, some connect its popularization to the former professional baseball player and coach, Edgar Martínez.
If you're feeling brave and you want to give the Edgar haircut a go, barber TJ Hunt of the UK barber shop Time Shoreditch is here to impart some wisdom on what to do and what not to do.
What you need to know about the Edgar haircut
There are plenty of styles that are way more ‘out there’ than the Edgar haircut, but there are also plenty that are more subtle too. With its blunt, abruptly-trimmed fringe and bowl-like shape, the Edgar has some distinctive features that make it very striking to look at. But, that also makes it harder to pull off.
“You’d struggle to make this style look anything but casual,” says Hunt. “If your job means that you have to wear a shirt and tie to the office, if you like to dress in a smarter way, or if you have a formal occasion or two coming up, then it may not be the one for you.”
You can rock whatever style that you want at any age (follicular coverage permitting, of course), but the Edgar haircut is definitely one that's more widely associated with a younger demographic.
“What looks great on a young gun queueing up outside Supreme may not look so effective on the other side of the school run,” says Hunt. “There are more age-appropriate options that the more discerning amongst us could try though. The French crop and the short mod both share similar characteristics, but are more timeless.”
One of the reasons why the Edgar haircut is so popular is because of how versatile it is. It can work on a wide variety of hair types, but it's worth noting that it will take on a totally different look depending on the density and nature of your locks.
“If your hair is naturally straight and thick, then you should be able to achieve the typical, pristine Edgar which lies flat with a full short cropped fringe,” says Hunt. “If you have finer or wavier hair, then it will work better with shorter, choppier layers towards the crown to give it more texture, and the fringe left longer to allow it to bounce up rather than stick out. Beware for cow licks too. These are awkward sections of hair that grow in different directions to the rest of the hairline—they can be problematic, especially if you want a neat fringe.”
To the untrained eye, the Edgar haircut might look quite simple. However, it's a lot more complex that you think, and will require regular visits to the barbershop.
“If you have a short taper, which is the go-to for this style, then these need to be freshened up every few weeks to look their best,” says Hunt. “Even if you opt for softer edges, the round shape will look bulky and misshapen after a month or so. And that’s before we get onto the fringe, which will start to separate and play up in a similar timescale. Basically, you’d best get used to sitting in the barber’s chair.”
If the Edgar haircut is well-executed, a lot of the styling work is already done for you. However, it’s not really a no-product hairstyle. This is because weight is intentionally left around the top sides and below the crown, which can become hard to control if left to its own devices, particularly after sleeping on it or during strong winds.
“A bit of product worked through the hair and then smoothed down with your palms should do the trick and hold everything in place,” says Hunt. “Paste will work well for shorter, smoother looks, and clay or hair powder will add hold and texture for a more choppy aesthetic.”
A lot of classic men’s hairstyles, particularly those incorporating short back and sides, are designed to give the head a squarer shape. The idea of this is that it elongates the face and makes it look thinner and more flattering. The Edgar haircut, however, goes against the grain, being inherently round in shape.
“Whilst this isn’t necessarily a problem and is very much down to personal preference, it will accentuate small or round faces,” says Hunt. “Round haircuts can work well with those with angular or narrow faces and those with pronounced features. If you're still not sure if the Edgar is right for you but you're still curious, go for it. If you don't think it looks any good, just let your hair grow out and try something else.”
This story has been updated.
This story originally appeared in British GQ.