The wardrobe of emoji clothes is severely lacking. There are eight pairs of shoes, two shirts, two pairs of pants, four bags, three sunglasses, two hats, and one coat. I admire a minimalist closet and the virtues of a personal uniform, but this capsule wardrobe is trash. Emoji Me is pitifully swagless. I’m not sure how to make formal requests to the Unicode Consortium, but if I had to choose one piece of outerwear for my wardrobe as an emoji or in IRL, it would absolutely not be a trench coat. It would be a bomber jacket.
Bomber jackets were introduced during World War I and were originally made for airforce pilots. They were crafted out of thick sheepskin to withstand freezing temperatures. The bomber’s iconic design with its boxy and cropped silhouette was meant to allow for range of motion within the confines of a tight cockpit. As the military-to-menswear pipeline goes, the bomber jacket became popular beyond the air base. Average citizens mined surplus stores for bomber jackets while celebrities from James Dean to Pharrell, Marilyn Monroe to Billie Eilish donned bombers in movies and at high-profile events.
But what guaranteed its success wasn’t just its utility, the bomber jacket is a sartorial alley-oop that broadens the shoulders, lengthens the legs and shows off a little ass (provided you’ve got the right pants to complete the dunk). The cropped silhouette flows seamlessly with the natural proportions of the body, proof that the ‘menswear golden ratio” is a universal law.
Leather versions like the A-1, A-2, and G-2 are particularly rugged yet feel more approachable than a moto jacket. Nylon styles like the CWU 45/P and the MA-1 make for lighter everyday bombers that are even more wearable, especially considering their lower pricepoint. Some versions are even reversible while others have detachable collars or hoods. Regardless of the style, every bomber jacket shares the same DNA, a penchant for making any wearer look just a little bit cooler.
Stylistically, the bomber jacket is a natural extension for both the Ivy and workwear sets. Layered with an Oxford shirt, chinos, and loafers make for a look straight out of Popeye magazine. Or who could forget the legions of dudes in the wake of Top Gun, armored with faded jeans, white tees, and aviator sunglasses? Though the bomber jacket’s military origins imbue it with an obvious rugged edge, designers have shown that rough-hewn energy can be leveraged, warped, and subverted into any style. Just look at the disparity between Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent and Demna’s Balenciaga, both of which used the bomber jacket as a key part of their aesthetics. The bomber jacket has become a springboard for designers and a medium unto itself. Take Chitose Abe whose infinite remixing of the MA-1 is an instant calling card.
When I’m struggling with what to wear, I default to my vintage MA-1 jacket. The outfit might be one I’ve worn a thousand times or an entirely new ensemble I’ve never explored before. The silhouette and proportions might even be on opposite ends of the spectrum. The color palette can swing from sober and monotone to kaleidoscopic. And yet, the bomber jacket seems to work with everything, if not enhance it.
It’s hard to think of a better jacket than a bomber. Each one has their place, trench coat included. But none are as well-built, nor as versatile, nor as sexy. From the high street to streetwear, the avant-garde to the typical mall fare, the bomber jacket has reached that rare sartorial status that transcends beyond menswear icon to an essential piece of kit. To anyone with a modicum of interest in fashion, get yourself a bomber jacket. To the Unicode Consortium, I look forward to the next emoji update.